Restoran Say Huat

February 2012

Unjustifiably overshadowed by SS2 when it comes to hawker food, Section 17 deserves a boost in the arm, not least because there are some sensational food stalls in the area. Say Huat is one such example, because it is not just home to fantastically lardy hawker food, it also houses three pretty good stalls (in order of merit): the kway teow noodle soup, Hokkien prawn mee and fried kway teow. The fact that all three come with lashings of crunchy lard does much to enhance the intrinsic culinary value of the dishes, and add appeal to already sparkling flavours.

The kway teow soup with homemade fish balls and a clear soup is the star here. Fried marinated garlic bits work overtime to ensure they are not overshadowed by their porky fellow ingredients and the resulting complexity of taste sensations is truly a joy to the palate.

The Hokkien prawn mee with kangkung, boiled egg, and (ask for it) extra fried – and deliriously crispy – shallots is perfectly complemented by a rich broth that is made voluptuous by the inclusion of the lard. Add to the equation the requisite dried prawns and it’s almost as if I am back in Penang, enjoying the favourite hawker food of my childhood.

The fried kway teow is no slouch either in the taste department: a tousle of noodles, bean sprouts, fat prawns, cockles and spring onions is high beamed with crunchy lard and one plate never seems to fill the gaping void that craves for ever more carbs.

I used to be squeamish about having fried pork fat in my food but I’ll put it down to the folly of youth and not be too hard on myself. After all, it’s better late than never discovering the joys of good lardy hawker food and I for one am making up for lost time, thanks to Say Huat. Fay Khoo